Wood finish/stain/varnish that would create most contrast?
I have made a wood box out of Black Limba (ex. http://www.hatchdesign.net/zboard/data/mapping/wood.1.Black_Limba.jpg) and I was just looking for suggestions on what kind of finish would really make the dark colors really dark, while leaving the lighter colors light.
Thanks
Most finishes will make any wood darker and protect it to some degree, but a lot of them add a yellow tint, such as oil based polyurethane or any type of oil. You're kind of asking for an unattainable thing because anything that will make the dark colors really dark will by it's very nature also darken the lighter parts. That being said, a clear lacquer or water based polyurethane are probably your best bet for a finish that won't darken the lighter parts of the wood significantly while also helping the darker grain really pop.
It also depends on what the piece is and what it's used for. I assume it's a jewelry box of some sort due to the exotic wood and how much it probably costs. You have a few more options for them than you would a piece of furniture like a table because there you'd need a finish that is also moisture and wear resistant.
Lacquer is the easiest to use because it dries quickly so you can apply a few coats in a day and it will be resistant to chipping and fading while not altering the colors too much, only making them more pronounced. It can be purchased in aerosol cans or as a liquid. Water based polyurethane is becoming increasingly popular because it doesn't have any VOC's (volatile organic compounds), isn't flammable, doesn't harm the environment, offers great protection, is also available in spray cans, and dries very clear. It would probably be the best to meet your requirements, but try both of them on a scrap piece that you've sanded to the same grit as the box to get an accurate idea of how they'll look. You can also use lacquer thinner or rubbing alcohol to get an idea of how wood will look with finish on it without raising the grain.
Personally, I like wood oil for certain items like bowls, boxes, and rocking chairs because the finish can be built up with multiple coats, offers a smooth, inviting surface, and is easy to repair if scratched. Because the lumber you've selected has a lot of yellow in it already, most wood oils aren't going to darken the lighter parts of it significantly and will allow you to build up a hand rubbed finish. I like Waterlox Original because it is available in high or semi gloss, doesn't add much yellow, and is easy to use, though it is a bit more expensive than Watco. I also like salad bowl oil because even though it is formulated to be safe around food, it also is easy to use, penetrates wood well, and only adds to the beauty of wood. Both are available from Woodcraft http://woodcraft.com or possibly a quality local lumber yard.You don't have to use it only on cutting boards and such, I've got it on a large tool box I made with multiple species of exotic wood drawer fronts and it looks great. Again, the advantage of an oil and wax finish is that they have a softer, more inviting texture and are easy to repair by simply smoothing out the scratch and adding more oil and wax. Both of them would be ideal for a box, though you could also use lacquer or water based poly. By the way, if you use wood oil, make sure all rags are thoroughly dry before disposal because if you toss them in a trash can while they're wet they can spontaneously combust.
You don't want to go to all the trouble to make a beautiful piece and then mess it up with a cheap or poorly applied finish, so do some more research, look into the archives of Fine Woodworking magazine, and make some samples. The photo looks like Zebrawood, which is pretty hard, will accept oil well, and polish to a nice shine, which is ideal for a box.
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